Ancient textiles reveal secrets through insect-based dyes

Anna Sheinberg, a Ph.D. candidate at Trinity College, and Martin Fischer, an adjunct professor there, are using pump-probe microscopy to examine ancient textiles from Peru held by the Nasher Museum of Art.

The researchers hope to identify whether the textiles were dyed using cochineal, a red pigment derived from small insects native to Mexico and South America. This technique employs ultrafast laser pulses to reveal subtle differences in materials without damaging the textiles themselves.

Julia McHugh, director of academic initiatives and curator at the Nasher Museum, collaborated with Sheinberg and Fischer, offering access to the museum’s collection of textiles. McHugh explained that the museum previously lacked detailed information about the origin and composition of these pieces. Determining the presence of cochineal dye could help researchers understand the textiles’ creators and approximate their age. The team also aims to identify the binding agents used to fix the dye to the fabric.

Sheinberg emphasized that this project demonstrates how chemistry can assist in preserving cultural heritage through interdisciplinary collaboration at Duke University.