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Father's love of food shaped former editor's view of culture

asahi.com · 16 October 2026
Father's love of food shaped former editor's view of culture
Photo: asahi.com

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Ueno Hiroki, former editor of the food magazine dancyu, reflected on how his father’s deep connection to food influenced his own understanding of culinary culture.

Ueno detailed his experiences caring for his aging parents in his essay, “Father’s Yakisoba in His Coffin.” He noted his family constantly discussed food, a habit stemming from his father’s career as a yakisoba chef and his love for both food and drink, even reciting the names of sake brands after receiving a life-limiting diagnosis.

Ueno observed that local sushi restaurants in his father’s time served as community hubs, places for conversation and events. His father would share small dishes with him during evening visits, instilling an appreciation for simple flavors. This led Ueno to believe that preserving food culture requires both those who create dishes and those who consume them.

He realized that even ordinary diners contribute to culinary evolution by accepting and shaping new tastes, and that without people to enjoy food, even the work of talented chefs would be lost. His father passed away shortly before turning 90.

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