Kent’s centuries-old food history uncovered

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Paul Brewin, a food historian from Molash in Kent, England, researched the county’s culinary past and identified some of England’s oldest recipes originating there.
Brewin discovered references to dishes like Jack of Dover and Kentish pudding in a manuscript from 1250, suggesting Kent has a rich food heritage stemming from its agricultural and coastal resources. He found approximately 340 recipes linked to Kent, including enduring favourites such as Kentish huffkins, watercress soup, and Canterbury tart.
Brewin noted that not all foods considered traditional are actually ancient, using Gypsy Tart as an example. He found no evidence of the recipe existing before 1955. Kent’s historical role as a farming and maritime county has shaped its cuisine, with Dover sole as a prime example, and Milton Regis once rivalled Whitstable as a source of high-quality oysters.
Brewin published his findings in a book titled Old Kentish Recipes to benefit Pilgrims Hospices, which provided care for his wife, and has so far raised around £1,300 for the charity. He also observed a revival of grape growing in Kent, demonstrating a return to historically significant crops.

